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Find Yourself on Bell Island, Newfoundland & Labrador

On January 2, 2012 – My friends & I set out on our first adventure of the New Year. We hopped in the car, drove to Portugal Cove-St. Phillips, after a few minutes waiting in line and a fare of less than $10 return ($6.25 for passenger + car/$1.75 for each additional passenger) we hopped on the MV Flanders and worked our way across the tickle.

The ferry ride is short about 20 minutes on the water ~40 minutes total. If you visit the City of St. Johns, consider adding Bell Island to your agenda as it truly is a stark contrast of life and beauty in itself.

Bell Island was once home to an iron ore mine that made it the second largest populated area, next to the  capital. It has a rich vibrant history, one that may be re-explored  as an announcement came a day or two after our visit that the mine may re-open.

No visit to Bell Island can be complete with at least one visit to Dick’s Famous Fish & Chips. It has been a fixture to the island for 60 years. This is quite a milestone for any small business.

The fish and chips were likely battered with a secret recipe, surely only available to family. I bet the workers are not even privy to such a lucrative combination. Enough for my selling pitch, before I get to a point of exaggeration. 🙂 The fish n’ chips were served golden brown and would not  disappoint as they tantalized the taste buds.

I was quite happy I ordered the three-piece meal, as it truly has been the best fish n’ chips I’ve tasted on the East Coast of the island of Newfoundland & Labrador. There was no choice but to leave satisfied and with a full stomach.

Dick’s Fish and Chips has done a remarkable job of marketing itself as a fixture – one which may have evolved over time. This was present from a wall of cartoons and notes posted in the hallway leading up to the take-out and restaurant seating area as past patrons noted how much they loved “Dicks”.

I have noted before the importance of truly marketing the rural experience. I challenge other retailers and small businesses to find their niche, stand out and create a following that will help you continue adding loyal customers into multiple decades whether you use humour, appeal, facts or some other means to market.

If you find yourself on Bell Island – Do not dare leave without some of Dicks’s Fish & Chips.

Live Rural NL –

Christopher Mitchelmore, MHA
The Straits-White Bay North
PS. I’ll be  following up shortly with more of our Bell Island Adventure….

A Brief History of Mummering…

The act of mummering actually comes from Rome, which is an awfully long way from Newfoundland and Labrador. The tradition was picked up in Great Britain, a tiny bit closer. It was adapted when some of the planters from Great Britain settled in Newfoundland, they brought the tradition of mummering with them.

At that time there were three types of mummering (or “jannying” or “mumming“). The oldest form was the parade. In St. John’s, Newfoundland‘s capital city, the Mummer’s Parade was a yearly event. This parade was not like our Santa Claus parades of today; it was very loud and rowdy, even to the point where people got hurt. In 1861, one hundred and fifty years ago, mummering was actually banned in Newfoundland because a man was killed by a group of mummers. Mummering, illegal?

Mummers also gave a performance visit. A group would go to someone’s house and put on a small play for him or her. The play always had a hero who was killed by a bad guy. Then a doctor would bring him back to life again. The actors in the play would ask for money before they left the house. This kind of visit stopped in Newfoundland and Labrador shortly before World War I; that’s more than 90 years ago.

The one kind of mummering activity that can still be found in Newfoundland and Labrador is the house visit. But years ago even this form of mummering was often violent and unpleasant. Mummers often carried “splits” or large sticks and fought with other groups of mummers or attacked innocent people. Horns, tails and skins from goats, sheep, caribou and seals were all used in costumes. They did a lot of damage to houses, wharves and fences. Many people were afraid of them.

Just under thirty years ago, in 1982, Bud Davidge and Sim Savoury released “The Mummer’s Song“. This silly song, written in true Newfoundland dialect, tells about a visit of the mummers who come in and dance. “Be careful the lamp and hold on to the stove. Don’t swing Granny hard ’cause you know that she’s old.” This catchy tune has probably caused more people to start mummering again. This time, however, most mummering is not violent, but fun. It is a really enjoyable way to visit your friends, and when they guess who you are, you invite them back to your house for a similar visit.

Sometime during the twelve days of Christmas, usually on the night of the “Old Twelfth”, People would disguise themselves with old articles of clothing and visit the homes of their friends and neighbors. They would even cover their faces with a hood, scarf, mask or pillowcase to keep their identity hidden. Men would sometimes dress as women and women as men. They would go from house to house. They usually carried their own musical instruments to play, singing and dancing in every house they visited. The host and hostess of these ‘parties’ would serve a small lunch of Christmas cake with a glass of syrup or blueberry or dogberry wine. All mummers usually drink a Christmas “grog” before they leave each house. (Grog-a drink of an alcoholic beverage such as rum or whiskey.) When mummers visit, everyone in the house starts playing a guessing game. They try to guess the identity of each mummer. As each one is identified they uncover their faces, but if their true identity is not guessed they do not have to unmask.

Although mummering has faded in large urban centers, with the exception of the re-introduction of the Mummer’s Parade held annually in St. Johns, the spirit of mummering continues in rural Newfoundland & Labrador. So when you’ve opened all your presents and you’ve eaten your turkey dinner, you probably feel that Christmas is over – here in Newfoundland and Labrador, the most easterly province in Can, the fun is just beginning, for the Twelve Days of Christmas (December 26 to January 6) is the time we’ll be mummering. You can watch for us, but you won’t know who we are!

There is still time to mummer, as tomorrow night is OLD CHRISTMAS NIGHT!

Live Rural NL – Christopher Mitchelmore

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